Quick answer: Not every Colorbond fence needs a plinth. If your fence line sits on genuinely flat, level ground with no soil step and no ground-contact issues, you may not need one at all. Run through the three checks below - measure the gap, check for soil and moisture signs, and check what's actually touching the fence base - and you'll have a clear answer for your specific fence line by the end of this page.
Before You Start: What This Checklist Answers
This guide is specifically about whether you need a plinth at all - not about choosing between a plinth and a full retaining wall, which is a different question with a different answer for larger height changes. If you already know you have a genuine soil step to manage and you're trying to work out whether a plinth is enough or you need a wall instead, that comparison is covered separately in the existing site guide on plinth vs retaining wall. This checklist is for the earlier question: does your fence line need a plinth at all, or is it fine as it stands.
New Build vs Established Garden: Why Context Matters
Before working through the three checks, it's worth noting that the situation you're assessing changes the checklist slightly in emphasis, even though the underlying checks stay the same.
- New fence on a freshly levelled or newly landscaped block - ground conditions here are often still settling, and what looks flat immediately after construction can shift slightly over the following year as fill settles and any new turf or garden beds establish. It's worth a follow-up check some months after the fence goes in, even if the initial assessment says no plinth is needed
- Established garden with a fence that's been in place for years - here the checks are assessing an existing, settled condition rather than a freshly built one, so any gap or soil sign you find has likely developed gradually and is worth taking at face value as a genuine, stable indicator rather something that might resolve itself as things settle
Keeping this context in mind helps interpret the checks below correctly - a borderline result on a brand-new block is worth monitoring, where the same borderline result on an established fence line is a more immediate signal.
Check 1: Measure the Gap at the Lowest Point
Walk the full length of your fence line and find the point where the gap between the bottom of the fence and the ground is largest - this is rarely uniform along a whole boundary, even on a block that looks flat from a distance.
- No visible gap, ground level on both sides - a plinth generally isn't needed. There's no soil step for it to manage and no ground-contact protection it would meaningfully add
- A gap under about 200mm at its largest point - this is the situation a plinth is specifically designed for. A single standard plinth course will typically close this comfortably
- A gap or soil step larger than around 400mm - this is beyond what a plinth, even stacked two high, is built to retain. At this point you're looking at a full retaining wall rather than a plinth, and the plinth-vs-wall comparison linked above is the next step
It's worth measuring at several points rather than one, and specifically checking near corner posts and at either end of the run, since these are the points most likely to show the largest variation from what the middle of the fence line looks like. A tape measure or a simple ruler held against the gap at each point is enough - this doesn't need specialist equipment, just a bit of patience walking the full boundary rather than assuming uniformity.
Check 2: Look for Soil and Moisture Signs
Even where a gap looks small, a few physical signs at the base of the fence are worth checking specifically, since they point to an active problem a plinth would solve even on a fence line that seems roughly level at first glance.
- Soil, mulch or garden bed material visibly migrating through or under the fence base onto a neighbour's side or a path
- A small but growing gap that's widened noticeably since the fence was installed, which can indicate gradual soil erosion or settling underneath it
- Visible ground movement or cracking near the fence line, more common on reactive clay soils, which can open an inconsistent gap along an otherwise level-looking fence
- Pooling water or a consistently damp patch running along the base of the fence after rain, which can indicate the fence line sits at a natural low point where water collects rather than drains away, gradually undermining the ground beneath it over time
Any of these signs point toward a plinth being worthwhile even on a fence line where the gap itself looks modest, since the underlying issue is likely to continue without something closing that base off properly. It's worth checking for these signs after a period of rain specifically, rather than only during dry weather, since several of them - erosion, migration of soil, and pooling water - are far more visible and obvious immediately following wet conditions than they are on a dry day.
Check 3: Check What's Actually Touching the Fence Base
This check matters more for timber fences than Colorbond, but it's worth confirming either way, since it changes how much benefit a plinth adds beyond simply closing a visual gap.
- Colorbond sheeting sitting directly in damp soil or garden bed mulch - Colorbond doesn't rot the way timber does, but sustained ground contact and moisture can still affect the base of the sheeting and its protective coating over time. A plinth lifts the sheeting clear of this
- A garden bed built up against the fence base on one side - even a small amount of retained soil height on one side of an otherwise level fence is exactly the situation a plinth handles well
- Pets or pests using a gap at the base to move under the fence - a functional rather than a soil-related reason to close the gap, but a legitimate one on its own
- Lawn or garden watering systems running near the fence base - a reticulation or sprinkler system that regularly wets the ground right along the fence line increases how much sustained moisture the fence base is exposed to, which can make an otherwise borderline case for a plinth more worthwhile
Three Worked Examples
To make the checklist more concrete, here's how it plays out across three common situations.
- Scenario A - a genuinely flat suburban block - measuring the fence line shows no meaningful gap anywhere along its length, no soil or moisture signs, and the fence sheeting sits clear of any garden bed. This fence line doesn't need a plinth. If a garden bed is added along the fence later, it's worth reassessing at that point rather than assuming the original "no" answer holds forever
- Scenario B - a mild, even step along one boundary - measuring shows a fairly consistent 120-150mm gap along most of the run, slightly higher near one corner. There are no significant moisture signs, but the gap itself is large enough that soil and mulch are starting to wash through in light rain. This is a straightforward single-course plinth situation - the gap sits comfortably within standard plinth height and there's a clear functional reason to close it
- Scenario C - a level block with a specific pet-related issue - the ground here is close to flat with only a very small gap, but the household dog has been digging at the base of the fence in one section, widening a natural small gap into a point it can fit through. Here, the soil step alone might not have triggered a plinth, but the functional need - closing off a gap being actively exploited - is a legitimate standalone reason to add one, at least along the affected section
These three examples show that the checklist isn't purely a mechanical measurement exercise - Check 3 in particular can tip a borderline case toward "yes" even where the soil step alone might not have.
Putting It Together: Your Answer
- All three checks come back clear - genuinely flat ground, no soil or moisture signs, nothing touching the fence base - a plinth isn't necessary for your fence line right now
- A gap up to around 200-400mm, or any of the soil/moisture signs present - a plinth is the right product, sized to the gap you measured in Check 1
- A gap or soil step beyond around 400mm - this has moved past what a plinth is designed for. See the plinth-vs-wall comparison for the next step
If You Decide a Plinth Isn't Needed Now
A "no" answer today doesn't need to be permanent, and it's worth knowing what might change that answer down the track rather than assuming a flat fence line will always stay that way.
- Adding a garden bed, raised planter or mulched border along a previously bare fence line introduces exactly the kind of retained-soil situation Check 3 is designed to catch, even on ground that hasn't itself changed shape
- Ground can settle gradually over time, particularly on fill or newly landscaped sections, which is worth a periodic re-check rather than a one-off assessment never revisited
- A change in how the property is used - a new pet, a change in watering or irrigation setup, or new plantings close to the boundary - can each shift the answer even where the ground itself is unchanged
None of this means a plinth needs pre-emptive installation "just in case" - it simply means the checklist above is worth revisiting occasionally rather than treated as a single permanent verdict, particularly after any landscaping changes near the fence line.
If the Fence Is a Shared Boundary Fence
Where the fence in question is a shared dividing fence between two properties, it's worth running this checklist with your neighbour rather than unilaterally, particularly if the answer points toward adding a plinth.
- A soil step or ground-contact issue at the base of a shared fence is usually visible, and often just as relevant, from both sides of the boundary, so it's worth confirming your neighbour sees the same gap or signs you do before assuming the assessment is one-sided
- Costs for shared dividing fence work, including a plinth addition, are commonly split between neighbouring properties in many states, depending on local dividing fences legislation - this is worth checking before assuming the cost or the decision sits with one party alone
- Where a soil step is specifically caused by a difference in ground level between the two properties - one side built up higher than the other, for example - a plinth is often the simplest shared fix, since it addresses the ground-level difference at the fence itself rather than requiring either neighbour to alter their own yard's grading
None of this changes the checklist itself, but it's worth having the conversation early if a plinth looks like the right answer for a fence line you don't own outright.
A Note on Colorbond Warranty Considerations
Colorbond steel fencing typically carries a manufacturer's warranty covering material defects such as corrosion under normal conditions, and it's worth being aware, in general terms, that warranty conditions can be affected by how a fence is installed and maintained - including ground contact and drainage around its base.
- Sustained ground contact or standing water against the base of Colorbond sheeting is the kind of condition warranty terms often specifically call out as outside normal use, since it accelerates wear in a way the product wasn't designed to withstand long-term
- A plinth that lifts the sheeting clear of direct ground contact can help keep the fence within the conditions its warranty assumes, which is a secondary but genuine reason to take Check 3 seriously even where the soil step itself seems minor
- This is general background only - if warranty terms matter to your specific situation, checking the actual current warranty documentation for your fence, rather than relying on general assumptions, is the reliable way to confirm what is and isn't covered, since terms can and do vary between fencing suppliers and installers
Common Mistake: Judging by the Middle of the Fence Line, Not the Worst Point
A fence line can look level when you check it in the middle of a run but have a noticeably larger gap near a corner post or at one end, particularly on a block with any fall across it. Always check the largest gap along the entire run, not just a spot check in the middle, since that worst point is what actually determines whether a plinth is needed and, if so, what height.
FAQs
Do I need a plinth for a Colorbond fence?
Only if there's a soil step, ground-contact issue, or persistent gap at the base of the fence line. A Colorbond fence on genuinely flat, level ground with no gap doesn't need one.
Do you need a plinth under a Colorbond corrugated fence?
The same checks apply regardless of the specific Colorbond profile - it comes down to the ground condition and gap at the base of your fence line, not the sheeting style itself.
What's the difference between this guide and the plinth vs retaining wall guide?
This guide answers whether you need a plinth at all, for fence lines with no gap, a small gap, or none. The plinth vs retaining wall comparison is for a step further along - once you already know you have a genuine soil height to manage and need to work out whether a plinth or a full wall is the right product for it.
Can I wait and add a plinth later if I'm not sure right now?
Generally yes, particularly for a new fence build on ground that looks close to level. Plinths can be retrofitted under most existing fences later if a gap develops or soil signs appear, though the retrofit job is more involved than fitting one during the original build.
Does every Colorbond fence on a sloping block need a plinth?
Most do, since a sloping block almost always creates some step under a straight fence line. Our guide on plinths on sloping blocks covers this specific situation in more detail.
If I add a garden bed later, should I reassess whether I need a plinth?
Yes. A garden bed or mulched border built up against a previously bare fence line can introduce a retained-soil situation even where the ground itself hasn't changed shape, which is worth checking against this list again at that point.
Who pays for a plinth on a shared boundary fence?
This depends on local dividing fences legislation, which varies by state, and is worth discussing directly with your neighbour before proceeding, particularly where the ground-level difference prompting the plinth affects both properties.
Browse the Range
If your checklist points to needing a plinth, our under-fence plinth range covers both standard finishes and sizes. For the general basics on what a plinth is, see our Under-Fence Plinths: Complete Guide.








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